Cowboy boots are an essential part of a Western wardrobe. From ranchers and rodeo competitors to trendsetters and anyone looking for a little giddyup in their step, Western boots make a statement. But peruse the shelves of your local Western wear store and you might be overwhelmed by the options when shopping for cowboy boots. Have no fear—we’ve got you covered.
Types of Cowboy Boots
Cowboy boots fall into several categories. Shane Holman, Ariat’s head of global merchandising, says one way to think of it is “horse or no horse.”
“What do you feel comfortable getting dirty in the dirt and being around a horse, and what are you going to wear out dancing or to dinner?” says Holman.
Toe shape and heel are the biggest indicators, followed by the material. Boot brands name their toe and heel shapes slightly different names, but they fall in several general styles with variations.
Riding Boots
Riding boots need to be stirrup friendly, so you want to see a low-but substantial heel with a smooth sole, and often a square toe—either a wide square toe or a narrow cutter toe. You may want a boot with performance features, like a comfort foot bed or reinforced shank.
“It’s all about performing, competing and lasting a long time,” says Holman.
Fashion Boots
Fashion boots often have a snip (pointed) toe or a rounded toe. Holman suggests looking for a silhouette that looks good with jeans tucked in, or a dress, skirt or shorts.
“Almost all of the fashion boots are going to have a higher heel, and they may not need to have performance features that we put into a performance boot,” she says.
Work Boots
Work Boots are designed to be utilitarian and functional. Made to last, and made for the job, they often have technical features such as a steel toe, waterproof material, a lug heel.
Work boots are designed to be utilitarian and functional.
“Work boots have so many requirements, and we have to make sure we fulfill those requirements,” Holman says. “There’s a lot of safety standards.”
Toe Shapes
Wide Square Toe
Cutter Toe
Round Toe
Snip Toe
Heel Shapes
Walking Heel / Horseman Heel
Riding Heel / Cowboy Heel
Materials
Full Grain Leather
This includes cow, which is smooth; bull hide, which has more texture; and finishes and colors such as metallic or patent.
Exotics
These include ostrich, caiman, alligator, pirarucu (also called big bass), snakeskin, elk, and bison, among others.
Soles
Rubber Sole
Leather Sole
The soles of cowboy boots are traditionally made of smooth leather, and many horsemen feel like it’s the safest option for riding. But boot makers have added rubber soles to boots for years, and Holman says they are just as safe. Within different brands you can find innovative features like DuraTread, lightweight soles, crepe and water-resistant soles.
“Rubber boots are generally found to be comfortable by most consumers,” says Holman. “But our goal is to also innovate our leather sole boots to ensure optimal comfort.”
Trend Watch
Tall boots that are 14 inches or higher, up to 18 inches, are really trending right now, Holman says. If you’re looking for a “quintessential” classic cowboy boot, you can’t go wrong with a rounded toe and a tall shaft. Ariat’s Belle Stretch Fit is a good example.
Super-tall boots are on trend right now, like the Belle StretchFit Western Boot.
“Those look great with your jeans tucked in, or a dress, or shorts, or if you’re going to a country concert,” she says.
For something a little more trendy and Western, choose a pointed toe with a tall shaft, and look for contrasting stitching.
Booties are a hot style as well. A style like Ariat’s Dixon mixes a snip toe, cowboy heel and the bootie (short) shaft height to work with any jean silhouette from flared to skinny to cropped.
For men, a wide square toe with a low heel is still the top style, according to Holman. But a narrow square toe, also known as a cutter toe, is on the leading edge of the trend. Interesting material is a hot trend right now.
“We’re seeing a lot of fun leather, suedes, roughouts and color for the guys,” she says.
There’s been a resurgence in a retro look, featuring cutter toes and a higher underslung heel, Holman explains.
“That goes back to an old timey cowboy look from West Texas, the bronc rider,” she says. “It can work for both fashion or performance.”
Cowboy Boots Styling Tips
Most boots look good with jeans over them, according to Holman. Boots that look good with a skirt, dress, or tucked in jeans have a taller shaft, and have something beautiful on that shaft, she says. A wide, square toe with a low heel is less flattering with your jeans tucked in or with a dress than a boot with a narrow toe and a high heel.
“You’re going to want it to be slender to your leg, and typically a taller boot is more flattering on your leg because it elongates,” she says. “It’s like a stiletto versus a flat.”
Booties work with jeans cuffed or rolled, or with a skinny jean, as well as flared or bootcut pants.
Fitting Tips for Cowboy Boots
Boots vary wildly on comfort. Starting with the outsole, then the footbed, and then how it feels on your leg, you’ll want to try on boots to make sure they feel comfortable for your specific foot.
Cowboy boots often fit differently than what you would expect from a running shoe.
“When you pull on a cowboy boot, you want to feel a tug and pull as you’re pulling on your bootstraps—or pull tabs,” says Holman. “You’ll often hear a ‘thump’ when you get into it and your heel hits home. You don’t want it to be slapping against your heel when you’re walking. You want it snug and comfortable.”
If you find your boots are too tight in the instep or ankle, you can apply baby powder or a plastic bag to get them on. You can also look into slightly stretching them at a bootmaker or a hat steamer.
“There’s lots of tricks to get in and out of boots, but I think it’s all about what you’re comfortable with when you put your boots on,” she says.
Still nervous about buying a new pair of boots? Don’t be. There are many styles to choose from to make your boots your own.
“The great thing about cowboy boots is they give someone a persona and confidence,” says Holman. “They’re awesome. They give you an attitude or an edge that you don’t get in your running shoes. They give you confidence.”
This cowboy boots shopping guide appeared in the Summer 2024 issue of Western Life Today magazine. Click here to subscribe!
